THE TIDE IS HIGH
THE NEWLY REFURBISHED RESTAURANT IS MAKING WAVES
IN VERO BEACH
By
Mark Spivak
Palm Beach Illustrated/ January 2008
The
Tides is old-fashioned in the best sense of
the word. Tucked away in a residential neighborhood
in the coastal section of Vero Beach, the restaurant
is as comfortable and reassuring as the rhythms
of the nearby ocean.
The converted old house is divided into three
small dining rooms, with the front room anchored
by a wood-burning fireplace. A sense of intimacy
is enhanced by tables spaced far enough apart
to allow for private conversations. Completely
refurbished before the start of the season,
the premises are light and airy, with powder-blue
walls and accents of eggshell white. The front
porch provides outdoor seating in good weather.
Chef Leanne Kelleher has owned The Tides since
March 2000. A graduate of the Culinary Institute
of America at Hyde Park, she describes her cooking
as "Treasure Coast cuisine"—Florida
ingredients enhanced by Latin touches, along
with elements of the Caribbean and the Deep
South. She weaves all these traditions into
a whole, which becomes greater than the sum
of its parts. Chef Bruce Turner assists her
in the kitchen. Her partner, Claudia Arens,
supervises the front of the house, with help
from manager Matthew Moore.
Kelleher’s light and graceful touch is
evident in a remarkable appetizer of sea scallops
($12), served on a bed of chilled Japanese soba
noodles. The slightest hint of spice is balanced
by the sweetness of the plump, tender scallops,
which have been seared to perfection. Lobster
Bisque ($10) is rich, soothing and intense,
fortified with brandy, packed with chunks of
lobster, and drizzled with cream.
Entrées are exceptional as well. A fillet
of grouper ($30) is crusted with potatoes and
sautéed until crisp, topped with shiitake
mushrooms and served in a citrus beurre blanc
studded with fresh crabmeat. Duck ($30), an
occasional chef’s special, is crisp on
the outside and tender within, and accompanied
by a praline sauce. Both dishes are garnished
with sugar snap peas, carrots, jumbo asparagus
and cauliflower croquettes.
The wine list, a recipient of the Wine Spectator
Award of Excellence, contains close to 200 labels.
The emphasis is on California, along with a
good representation from Europe. Markups are
fair, and the selections are carefully thought
out. A bottle of 2005 Pouilly-Fuissé
from Verget ($40) complements the cuisine nicely.
And there is always a sweet ending. From a list
of comfort-food favorites that include Key lime
cheesecake, homemade Granny Smith Dutch Apple
Pie, a trio of crème brûlée
and warm chocolate brownie sundae, the white
chocolate and raspberry bread pudding ($8) is
a standout. Served warm and surrounded by a
Godiva-infused white chocolate sauce, it is
the perfect conclusion to a well executed meal.
Service at The Tides is provided by an attentive
staff. Most are long-term employees, and they
delight in providing unexpected, thoughtful
touches that go beyond the ordinary. Both management
and ownership patrol the dining room diligently,
and are not above clearing tables or replenishing
silverware. Low-key and unobtrusive, the service
becomes as enjoyable as the food and ambience.
The Tides is worth a trip to Vero Beach, but
reserve before you go. Seating is limited, and
the restaurant is extremely popular with locals,
who form a loyal core of regulars during the
season. Depending on business, closing times
also can be flexible. It’s a place to
return to again and again.
THE TIDES
WHERE:
3103 Cardinal Drive, Vero Beach (772-234-3966)
OPEN:
5:30 p.m.-9 p.m., Sunday-Thursday; 5:30 p.m.-10
p.m., Friday-Saturday RESERVATIONS:
necessary FOOD:
Floridian, with touches of Latin, Caribbean
and the Deep South ATMOSPHERE:
intimate and comforting SERVICE:
low-key, attentive and thoughtful PRICE:
moderate to expensive DRESS:
upscale casual
www.tidesofvero.com
